Hedgerow, by John Wright
Last Friday it was Mrs Hosier’s birthday, so I took the day off work to be with her. This turned into a bit of a foody meander through Dorset – organic, stoneground flour from Cann, just outside Shaftesbury; the farmers market at Sherbourne supplying Blue Vinney and sheeps milk cheese, and fresh asparagus; local beers at the Brace of Pheasants pub in the village of Plush.
We like interesting food.
Our garden is starting to get interesting too – so far we’ve had salad (lots of salad), one artichoke, and the first couple of strawberries. Pesto made with our home-grown basil is a big hit. Tomatoes are forming on the vine, and the early potatoes are nearly ready. The weirdly warm spring we’ve had has really helped speed things along this year.
Daughter No. 3 is into this kind of thing as well, and bought her mother the River Cottage Handbook on Hedgerows as a birthday gift. We go in for a bit of foraging already, but John Wright operates at a higher dimension of free food gathering. For anyone interested in the culinary properties of what might more generally be disregarded as weeds, this is a great place to start.
As well as being informative, Wright has a nice turn of phrase. For example, in describing wood sorrel…
The trefoil nature of the leaves has made it one of the candidates for the shamrock, with which St Patrick demonstrated the nature of the Holy Trinity (in fact the Trinity is a mystery and resists metaphor). Another familiar religious association is due to its flowering at Easter time, giving it the occasional name of Alleluia.
The flowers are unusual in that while they are nearly always infertile, the plant always sets seed. In fact the seeds are produced by tiny, unopening and self-fertile flowers near the roots in a process called cleistogamy (‘closed marriage’ – ‘open marriage’, if you’re wondering, is called chasmogamy). The visible flowers are, it seems, just for show.
Or this, on that pernicious invader of gardens – ground elder…
I have made Ground Elder soup and Ground Elder quiche, all the tastier for being made from the bodies of an enemy. If you keep guinea pigs it is well worth feeding them with as much Ground Elder as you can – it gives a lovely fresh flavour to the meat.
Picking your way through hedgerows looking for something interesting to eat won’t be everyone’s cup of tea, but it has much to commend it – fresh air and the victorious feeling of a successful hunt if nothing else. Reading this little book might be just the spur you need to get out there and munching on your first piece of red goosefoot or hogweed.